At 5:30 am, Benjakitti Park awakens under the soft, cool embrace of Bangkok’s early morning. For us residents this is a precious hour when the city breathes easier – its usual hustle and heat yet to set in. The air is not as hot, carrying a faint hint of dew and the scent of fresh foliage. The park’s modern design, with its elevated walkways and permaculture-inspired wetlands, invites a gentle exploration.

Benjakitti Park was formerly known as the “Tobacco Monopoly Park” as it was established on land that previously housed a tobacco factory. The name “Benjakitti” comes from the Thai words “ben” meaning “to be” and “jakkiti” meaning “to give” or “to grant.” So the name roughly translates to “the park that was granted/given” to the people of Bangkok.

The ponds here remain tranquil, their surfaces still and undisturbed. Early joggers and cyclists weave quietly along the modern and well maintained pathways, blending seamlessly with the soft hum of nature: a bird’s call, the rustle of leaves, the occasional splash of water.

From here, an elevated walkway connects to Lumpini Park- a physical and symbolic bridge that takes you from contemporary Bangkok to the historic Lumpini Park.

Stepping into Lumpini Park, the first thing you notice is that the place has been a landmark for some time. The towering statue of King Rama VI stands sentinel at the park’s entrance, a constant reminder of Bangkok’s royal legacy and the enduring significance of this green sanctuary. Behind him, the sprawling lawns and ancient and mature trees stretch out, their shadows forming slowly with the touch of soft morning light.

The name “Lumpini” derives from the birthplace of the Buddha, Lumbini, which is located in modern-day Nepal. The park was previously known as “Saranrom Royal Garden” and was established in 1892 by King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) as one of the first public parks in Bangkok.

This is the golden hour of Lumpini, when the atmosphere is cool and crisp, and the city’s usual hum is replaced by birdsong. Seniors gather near the ponds, practicing Tai Chi to the gentle strains of traditional Chinese music. Their slow, deliberate movements blend perfectly with the tranquil surroundings, creating a scene that feels untouched by time.

The Dusit Thani Hotel’s iconic spire has returned to the Silom/Rama IV intersection with a slight contemporary twist, piercing the skyline like a modern monument. Its sleek design is a striking contrast to the natural beauty of the park, yet it feels perfectly at home here, bridging Bangkok’s rich past and its vibrant future.

The paddle boats here, moored along the edges of the sparkling ponds, are another reminder of the park’s enduring charm. As they rest quietly in the water, they seem to wait patiently for the families and couples who will animate them later in the day. The ponds themselves shimmer with the first light of the sun, reflecting the lush greenery around them.

Adding to the magic is the relatively unpolluted air, a rare treat in this bustling metropolis. In the early morning and Saturdays more so, the reduced traffic gives the city a reprieve, and the air carries a sense of freshness that amplifies the feeling of peace in Lumpini.

After soaking in the traditions of Lumpini, the walk back to Benjakitti Park feels like a journey forward in time. The park embodies balance – between urban innovation and natural tranquility – offering a fitting close to this exploration of Bangkok’s green heart.As the morning brightens, the path leads to the centerpiece of Suan Sirikit: the magnificent fountain with elegant streams of water arching gracefully into the air, catching the sunlight in dazzling patterns.

By now, the park has begun to stir, with more joggers, cyclists, and walkers adding a quiet energy to the surroundings. Though the paddle boats on the Benjakitti side remain still, the fountain’s motion brings life to the space, creating a dynamic contrast to the serene wetlands.

A great way to start your bangkok day, a stroll from the modernity of Benjakitti to the charm of Lumpini, ending at Suan Sirikit’s fountain, experiencing the full spectrum of Bangkok’s identity. A reminder that there is more to Bangkok, that even in the heart of this bustling metropolis, moments of peace and connection with nature are also possible.